Made in Clerkenwell
Precious stones and metals have been traded and finely worked in the narrow streets around Hatton Garden in Clerkenwell throughout London’s commercial history.
Today, small designer-maker studios nestle into Dickensian streets. Around the corner are the mighty offices of DTC, formerly De Beers, who control the world’s diamond supply. Shops with velvet lined window display cases and hefty double doors are frequented by jewish dealers in distinctive hassidic dress; a close knit industry built up over generations.
Hatton Garden became a world centre for goldsmithing, jewellery-making, diamond and precious metals trading in the 19th century, thanks to the East India Company's imports.
Yet by the 1970s climbing prices and competition for the area's converted Victorian buildings had begun to drive these craft skills out of the area. A group of craftspeople came together to form the Clerkenwell Green Association to maintain and promote the area's fine craft skills.
Despite continued pressure on workspace, the loss of the industry has been averted and today Clerkenwell retains one of the largest clusters of jewellery businesses in the UK, thanks in part to several organisations.
Clerkenwell Green Association provides 80 workspaces, a network for 200 members and the Pennybank Showcase, a support and showcasing programme. Cockpit Arts also provides workshop space and support to its designer-makers. Both organisations run large open studios events every summer and winter, the latter coinciding with Hidden Art Open Studios.
"Because of its historic origins this has always been an attractive area for designer-makers but recently, more support systems have become available for designers to tap into," says Tina Searle who runs Clerkenwell Green Association.
Jewellery and silversmithing courses at London Metropolitan (formerly Guildhall) University and the Holt Jewellery School draw master craftsmen and women to Clerkenwell. The Hatton Garden Jewellery Centre, established with assistance from the City Fringe Partnership, focuses investment into the area.
This historic heart within the modern city casts its spell creatively. One jewellery designer-maker based for the past seven years at CGA's Pennybank Chambers is Janice Derrick, who set up her studio with a Clerkenwell Award. Her work is influenced by architecture and graphic imagery, which is borne out in pieces with moving planes and parts, or that lay directly on the body as sculpture (above).
Janice’s designing has a resonance with the energy of the city. “I tend to design by drawing abstractly then pulling forms out of what I’ve drawn. Even doodles are structural. I’m an avid photographer, mostly of architectural forms around the city. The Guggenheim in New York is a constant inspiration with its cross between structure and organic form. I also like the clean lines and curves of Art Deco.”
Her jewellery reveals these interests, capturing geometry and organic forms simultaneously. Her newest range, Bamboo, was inspired during a Crafts Council research trip to Japan.
Janice resists fashion jewellers’ trend cycles, maintaining instead her strong signature ranges. “People need to handle jewellery, to try it on,” she recommends. "Something that looks bold can be incredibly comfortable." Janice’s customers tend to be visitors to the Chelsea Crafts Fair: “Women aged between 30 and 60, who are not intimidated by large pieces of jewellery. In short, a confident woman.”